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Agaves, Spirits & Sustainability in Oaxaca, Mexico

11/19/2019

 

By: Perin McNelis, BRN Assistant Manager Nursery & Seed Curation
​

​As BRN’s Native Plant Materials program begins to develop a set of regional guide books for growing agaves from seed in the borderlands, I visited Rezpiral in Oaxaca to learn about agave production in the heart of agave land. Oaxaca is home to over 40 species of agave and is at the southern end of the migratory route for the Lesser and Greater Long-Nosed Bats. It is also home to non-migratory nectar feeding bats that also pollinate agave plants. The tradition of growing agave, or maguey, for food and drink runs deep in Oaxaca where people have been in a relationship with these plants through farming and distillation for generations. ​
Picture
.Agave pups planted for agroforestry.
Picture
Vivero agave crops.
"Rezpiral is a spirits label, project and fair trade practice that brings beautiful selections of the highest quality traditional artisanal single-batch (non-certified) Mezcals into a handful of places in the USA.  At the core of the project is the embrace of an ethos that aims to respect and support the multi-generational knowledge, independence, flavors, lands and ways of each mezcalero family with whom we work. The project upholds quality and value, working from batch to batch, bringing to market an eclectic selection of spirits, each complex and excellent.
​
Rezpiral’s small scale allows for the advocacy of diversity on different levels, from supporting the autonomy of producers and their continued production of single batch artisanal agave distillates to the preservation of local land control. These ethics seek to contribute to the countering of industrial standardization and cultural appropriation of this family and pueblo produced spirit and culture of excellence."
Picture
Adult agave plant.
'Ecologically, seeding and planting practice is key to sustainability, autonomy and sustenance, and is something independent artisans have been doing for years. Rezpiral actively supports master artisans in planting and managing agave. Rezpiral believes that the burden of planting and protecting varieties should not fall completely on the shoulders of the artisan campesino, but be shared by the consumer. The Rezpiral nursery program promotes and practices this idea. Rezpiral also redirects 10% of it’s earnings back into supporting producer’s farming costs and practices."
Picture
Perin showing scale for this beautiful agave.
Picture
Agave pups sprouting nicely.
The BRN horticulture team met Alex White of Rezpiral at the 2019 Agave Heritage Festival in Tucson and felt that our missions were deeply aligned seeking to support people and landscapes through the uplifting and supporting cultures of land stewardship providing viable livelihoods centered on land-based activities. We know that the fates of wild agave species and the creatures that depend on them, including the migratory Lesser Long-Nosed Bat, are deeply tied to how humans relate to this magnificent plant and how we navigate the current “boom” cycle caused by mezcal and bacanora’s explosive arrival to the global capitalist market. Rezpiral works at a very local level, in the heart of Agave land, to offer a model of how the ancient practice of agave spirit production can both thrive and be produced in a way that doesn’t exploit the land or the people who have maintained this practice for generations.
Picture
Vivero entrance sign.
​
One of the ways they do this is through their “Amigos del Maguey y la Biodiversidad” project, which is a nursery on ejido land (land that was redistributed or returned to pueblos and their people after the Mexican Revolution to be collectively owned and managed for farming) that produces agaves of twenty plus varieties from seed both collected and sourced from a community of producers.
In the first cycle of the project, seeds are being sown directly into ground beds, spaced out after they germinate and begin to crowd each other, then transplanted into the fields of various mezcaleros in the Rezpiral community a year later. This keeps genetic diversity in the stock of mezcaleros agaves to make the crop more resilient in response to catastrophic events that could potentially decimate a crop of agave produced solely by clonal “pups”. Additionally, using seed ensures that agave plants flower, which supports its pollinators, such as bats, bees, moths, and birds.

​Rezpiral has also experimented with an agroforestry approach to planting agaves in which the young agaves from the nursery are transplanted into lands that have not been clear cut or leveled so that there is a mixture of agave species growing amongst trees and shrubs as they would in the natural landscapes surrounding the agricultural fields.
Picture
Spouting Agave pups.
Picture
Transplanted Agave pups planted near trees and shrubs as they would be found naturally.
Rezpiral has created a few beautiful literary tools about mezcal and agave production in the unique context of Oaxaca. BRN picked-up one if these booklets called “Vivero Amigos Del Maguey Y La Biodiversidad” at the Agave Heritage Festival last year. The BRN horticulture team was inspired by the booklet that lays out an easily replicable model for growing agaves from seed.

The book describes the first phase of Rezpiral’s experiments with starting a nursery and planting with an agroforestry approach. BRN has been approached numerous times by various groups interested in learning how to start up nurseries for growing agaves in the US/Mexico borderlands, so we have realized there is demand for workshops and a printed resource that details seed collection, propagation and planting methods that can provide an iterative framework for restoration practitioners, land managers, and spirit producers, that can be adjusted to fit the contexts and needs of the grower. 
Picture
“Vivero Amigos Del Maguey Y La Biodiversidad” Booklet about Agave Production
Picture
​With support from Mountain Rose Herbs and Bat Conservation International, the BRN Native Plant Materials program will be developing a set of bilingual regional guide books, inspired by Rezpiral’s guide and building on their momentum for growing agaves with a restoration focus, but that can be used by anyone who is interested. My visit to Oaxaca was so inspiring for kick starting this work, and provided me with so much food for thought regarding ecological work that must also navigate the social cultural and political worlds. BRN looks forward to working more with Rezpiral in the future!

Photo Credits: Perin McNelis

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  • Who We Are
    • BRN Mission & Vision >
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    • Meet Our Team
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    • Meet the Network >
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      • Wildlife Corridors
      • Cuenca Los Ojos
    • Meet Our Partners
  • What we do
    • Education & Outreach >
      • Borderlands Earth Care Youth
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      • Women Grow Food
      • Mesquite Workshops
      • Salud Comcaac
    • Native Plant Program >
      • Native Plant Program
      • Borderlands Nursery & Seed
      • Current Projects & Initiatives
      • Regional Seed Strategy
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      • Quail Habitat Restoration
      • Path Of The Jaguar
    • Borderlands Wildlife Preserve
  • News
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  • Donate
  • Join Us
    • Job Opportunities
    • Volunteer
    • ENewsletter
  • Blog
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