GERMINATION TIPS FOR NATIVE SEEDS


​Native seeds have particular germination needs that relate to the habitats they evolved with. Compared to domesticated plant species, native plants take much longer to germinate, or begin the growing process. Many native seeds live for years in soil seed banks before the perfect conditions arrive for germination - in order to speed up germination, we can simulate these ideal conditions and environmental patterns in a greenhouse or home-garden. See these tips below for germinating your native seeds, and have fun!

GERMINATING SEEDS IN A GREENHOUSE OR IN POTS

Tree, shrub, or valuable forb seed (such as Asclepias, or milkweed, species) is often germinated in a greenhouse or in pots in a location where ideal germination conditions can be simulated. Below are some of the methods you may need to employ to get your native seeds to germinate:

Moist Cold Stratification (Physiological Dormancy): Natural enzymes in some native seeds prevent them germinating until winter has passed. This ensures that the seed germinates in the spring at the beginning of the growing season, as opposed to germinating in the fall before the freezing, killing temperatures of winter arrive. It is easy to simulate a 1-2 month winter by mixing seeds with a moist soil, sand, or peat moss and placing them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Make sure there is no standing water in the bag - the media should be moist but not sopping wet. Soak your seeds for 3-12 hours before putting them in the bag with the soil to ensure they have fully imbibed.

Scarification & Hot water (Physical Dormancy): Seeds with very tough exteriors must have their seed coat broken before water can reach the inner tissues. A good example in our area is the seed of the coralbean, Erythrina flabelliformis. The seed coat can be clipped, pierced with a knife, or treated with sandpaper. After treating your seed, soak it in water - you should see it swell up within 24 hours!

Surface sowing native seeds: Some seeds require light to germinate. This is more common with very tiny seeds; lightly sprinkle them over your soil media and rub lightly with your fingers to ensure seed-soil contact.

Complex Germination: Some seeds exhibit double dormancy, or require alternating periods of cold and warm to germinate. If you are not having luck simulating these conditions, try letting the elements do it for you! Try planting your seeds outside in the same time of year they would be released from the parent plant - the seed is likely still viable and will just show up a little later than otherwise.





VIEW OUR CATALOGUE TO

​ VIEW SPECIES-SPECIFIC

​GERMINATION AND GROWING TIPS:

GERMINATING SEEDS ON THE LANDSCAPE OR IN YOUR GARDEN

Using native grass or wood chip mulch helps retain moisture and encourage seedling germination.

"When do I plant?" is the most common question we are asked by our seed purchasers and gardens. The answer is not so simple; we find that although the best time of year to plant is often with the summer monsoon rainy season or early fall, seeds purchased at other times of year will then be relegated to a desk drawer, refrigerator, or closet, where they are forgotten and slowly lose their viability. Therefore, we usually recommend that you plant your seeds when you are ready to plant. Your seed may have to sit in the soil for longer and will be at greater risk of being eaten by the wandering insect, but it is better than being forgotten entirely.

Grass and wildflower seed is usually direct-seeded in the landscape. There are several practices you can employ to increase likelihood of good germination and establishment:

​
1. Account for seed dormancy. Many native seeds have built-in "dormancy" that allows them to wait for the perfect germination conditions. Dormant seeds may rely on physical mechanisms, such as hard seed coats that must be worn down over time, or physiological mechanisms, such as chemical reactions spurred by cold or warm temperatures, to keep them in a state of rest until the right conditions are available. See the section above for more information on dormancies.

2. Plant when the soil temperature is right. This is where the "best time to plant" we mentioned above comes in. If you want to see fast germination on seeds without dormancy (such as many warm-season grasses, like Bouteloua curtipendula), you want to sow when the soil is warm enough to trigger seed germination. If you want to see a beautiful spring flush of wildflowers, they will need to undergo a cool, wet winter before they can germinate, so you want to plant when the soil is cooler in the fall.

3. Ensure available water. Native seeds need to stay moist during their germination period - which can be as little as 7-10 days, or as long as 3 months. For most direct seeded species, we recommend you keep the seeds moist for around 28 days. This does not mean the seed needs water every daySupplement rains with 

SEED PELLETS AS AN ANSWER TO CHALLENGES OF GROWING NATIVE SEEDS

The largest challenges you are likely to face in your native seed germination endeavors, are insect/rodent predation, desiccation (drying out), and flooding out (washing away). The strategy we use at BRN to counter these challenges is a simple technique: seed pellets!

​Seed pellets (also called seed balls) are small, irregularly shaped balls of seed, clay, compost, and other filler materials (such as diatomaceous earth) that protect the seed from being eaten by insects and rodents, act as little sponges to retain moisture following rains, and weight the seed in place to prevent their washing or blowing away.

You can make your own seed pellets or purchase them from our online store when they are available. Check our blog for instructions on how to make them yourself, coming soon!
"It will be the plants that we use in our gardens that determine what nature will be like in 50 years"    
​-Doug Tallamy, Bringing Nature Home